Bali Culture and Customs

Bali History

Bali  was inhabited by Austronesian peoples by about 2000 BC who migrated originally from Taiwan through Maritime Southeast Asia. Culturally and linguistically, the Balinese are thus closely related to the peoples of the Indonesian archipelago, the Philippines, and Oceania. Stone tools dating from this time have been found near the village of Cekik in the island's west.

Balinese culture was strongly influenced by Indian and Chinese, and particularly Hindu culture, in a process beginning around the 1st century AD. The name Bali dwipa ("Bali island") has been discovered from various inscriptions, including the Blanjong pillar inscription written by Sri Kesari Warmadewa in 914 AD and mentioning "Walidwipa". It was during this time that the complex irrigation system subak was developed to grow rice. Some religious and cultural traditions still in existence today can be traced back to this period. The Hindu Majapahit Empire (1293–1520 AD) on eastern Java founded a Balinese colony in 1343. When the empire declined, there was an exodus of intellectuals, artists, priests and musicians from Java to Bali in the 15th century.

Balinese bodies at Denpasar during the Dutch intervention in Bali (1906).

The first European contact with Bali is thought to have been made by Dutch explorer Cornelis de Houtman who arrived in 1597, though a Portuguese ship had foundered off the Bukit Peninsula as early as 1585 and left a few Portuguese in the service of Dewa Agung Dutch colonial control expanded across the Indonesian archipelago in the nineteenth century (see Dutch East Indies). Their political and economic control over Bali began in the 1840s on the island's north coast by pitting various distrustful Balinese realms against each other. In the late 1890s, struggles between Balinese kingdoms in the island's south were exploited by the Dutch to increase their control.

The Dutch mounted large naval and ground assaults at the Sanur region in 1906 and were met by the thousands of members of the royal family and their followers who fought against the superior Dutch force in a suicidal puputan defensive assault rather than face the humiliation of surrender. Despite Dutch demands for surrender, an estimated 1,000 Balinese marched to their death against the invaders. In the Dutch intervention in Bali (1908), a similar massacre occurred in the face of a Dutch assault in Klungkung. Afterwards the Dutch governors were able to exercise administrative control over the island, but local control over religion and culture generally remained intact. Dutch rule over Bali had come later and was never as well established as in other parts of Indonesia such as Java and Maluku.

In the 1930s, anthropologists Margaret Mead and Gregory Bateson, and artists Miguel Covarrubias and Walter Spies, and musicologist Colin McPhee created a western image of Bali as "an enchanted land of aesthetes at peace with themselves and nature", and western tourism first developed on the island^.

Balinese dancers show for tourists, Ubud.

Imperial Japan occupied Bali during World War II during which time a Balinese military officer, Gusti Ngurah Rai, formed a Balinese 'freedom army'. The lack of institutional changes from the time of Dutch rule however, and the harshness of war requisitions made Japanese rule little better than the Dutch one. Following Japan's Pacific surrender in August 1945, the Dutch promptly returned to Indonesia, including Bali, immediately to reinstate their pre-war colonial administration. This was resisted by the Balinese rebels now using Japanese weapons. On 20 November 1946, the Battle of Marga was fought in Tabanan in central Bali. Colonel I Gusti Ngurah Rai, by then 29 years old, finally rallied his forces in east Bali at Marga Rana, where they made a suicide attack on the heavily armed Dutch. The Balinese battalion was entirely wiped out, breaking the last thread of Balinese military resistance. In 1946 the Dutch constituted Bali as one of the 13 administrative districts of the newly-proclaimed State of East Indonesia, a rival state to the Republic of Indonesia which was proclaimed and headed by Sukarno and Hatta. Bali was included in the "Republic of the United States of Indonesia" when the Netherlands recognised Indonesian independence on 29 December 1949.

The 1963 eruption of Mount Agung killed thousands, created economic havoc and forced many displaced Balinese to be transmigrated to other parts of Indonesia. Mirroring the widening of social divisions across Indonesia in the 1950s and early 1960s, Bali saw conflict between supporters of the traditional caste system, and those rejecting these traditional values. Politically, this was represented by opposing supporters of the Indonesian Communist Party (PKI) and the Indonesian Nationalist Party (PNI), with tensions and ill-feeling further increased by the PKI's land reform programs. An attempted coup in Jakarta was put down by forces led by General Suharto. The army became the dominant power as it instigated a violent anti-communist purge, in which the army blamed the PKI for the coup. Most estimates suggest that at least 500,000 people were killed across Indonesia, with an estimated 80,000 killed in Bali, equivalent to 5% of the island's population.With no Islamic forces involved as in Java and Sumatra, upper-caste PNI landlords led the extermination of PKI members. As a result of the 1965/66 upheavals, Suharto was able to maneuver Sukarno out of the presidency, and his "New Order" government reestablished relations with western countries. The pre-War Bali as "paradise" was revived in a modern form, and the resulting large growth in tourism has led to a dramatic increase in Balinese standards of living and significant foreign exchange earned for the country.  A bombing in 2002 by militant Islamists in the tourist area of Kuta killed 202 people, mostly foreigners. This attack, and another in 2005, severely affected tourism, bringing much economic hardship to the island.

Geography

Topography of the island

See also List of bodies of water in Bali and List of mountains in Bali.

The island of Bali lies 3.2 km (2 mi) east of Java, and is approximately 8 degrees south of the equator. Bali and Java are separated by Bali Strait. East to west, the island is approximately 153 km (95 mi) wide and spans approximately 112 km (69 mi) north to south; its land area is 5,632 km².

The highest point is Mount Agung at 3,142 m (9,426 feet) high, an active volcano that last erupted in March 1963. Mountains range from centre to the eastern side, with Mount Agung the easternmost peak. Mount Batur (1,717 m) is also still active; an eruption 30,000 years ago was one of the largest known volcanic events on Earth. In the south the land descends to form an alluvial plain, watered by shallow, north-south flowing rivers, drier in the dry season and overflowing during periods of heavy rain. The longest of these rivers, Ayung River, flows approximately 75 km.

The island is surrounded by coral reefs. Beaches in the south tend to have white sand while those in the north and west have black sand. The beach town of Padangbai in the south east has both. Bali has no major waterways, although the Ho River is navigable by small sampan boats. Black sand beaches between Pasut and Klatingdukuh are being developed for tourism, but apart from the seaside temple of Tanah Lot, they are not yet used for significant tourism.

The largest city is the provincial capital, Denpasar, near the southern coast. Its population is around 300,000. Bali's second-largest city is the old colonial capital, Singaraja, which is located on the north coast and is home to around 100,000 people. Other important cities include the beach resort, Kuta, which is practically part of Denpasar's urban area; and Ubud, which is north of Denpasar, and is known as the island's cultural centre.

Southern Bali in the foreground and Mount Agung behind

Three small islands lie to the immediate south east and all are administratively part of the Klungkung regency of Bali: Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan. These islands are separated from Bali by the Badung Strait.

To the east, the Lombok Strait separates Bali from Lombok and marks the biogeographical division between the fauna of the Indomalayan ecozone and the distinctly different fauna of Australasia. The transition is known as the Wallace Line, named after Alfred Russel Wallace, who first proposed a transition zone between these two major biomes. When sea levels dropped during the Pleistocene ice age, Bali was connected to Java and Sumatra and to the mainland of Asia and shared the Asian fauna, but the deep water of the Lombok Strait continued to keep Lombok and the Lesser Sunda archipelago isolated.

Ecology

The Bali Starling lives only on Bali. As few as six may exist in the wild as of 2001

Bali Island is situated on the border of the Wallace Line, where transition from the Asian wildlife and flora is made into the Pacific Islands biotope. Bali is virtually the southernmost island with specific Asian fauna and flora and with very few influences from the Pacific Islands like the Yellow-crested Cockatoo and other bird species occur. Bali has around 280 species of birds, including the critically endangered Bali Starling, one of the rarest birds in the world. Others are: Barn Swallow, Black-naped Oriole, Black Racket-tailed Treepie, Crested Serpent-eagle, Crested Treeswift, Dollarbird, Java Sparrow, Lesser Adjutant, Long-tailed Shrike, Milky Stork, Pacific Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, Sacred Kingfisher, Sea Eagle, Woodswallow, Savanna Nightjar, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Yellow-vented Bulbul, White Heron, Great Egret.

Until the beginning of the 20th century, Bali was home to some large animals such as the wild Banteng, Leopard and even the Bali tiger. The first still occurs in its domestic form, while leopards only in neighboring Java, but the Bali Tiger has completely disappeared, with last recorded one in 1937, when last known specimen was shot. Due to the relative small size of the island and clashes with humans, along with poaching and habitat reduction has driven this unique feline to extinction. It was the smallest and rarest of all tiger species and never caught on film or displayed in zoos, few skins and bones remain in museums around the world as a testimony of its undisputed existence. Today, the largest animals remain the Javan Rusa deer and the Wild Boar. The water monitor can grow to an impressive size and move surprisingly quickly. Two species of deer occur in the island the smaller Muntjak and the larger Javan Rusa deer.

The Bali Tiger was declared extinct in 1937 due to hunting and habitat loss.

Snakes are represented by green snakes and occasional king and pythons occurring around areas where mice and rats are present. Squirrels are quite commonly encountered, more rare the Asian Palm Civet grown also in coffee farms to produce the expensive and controversial Kopi Luwak. Chiropteras are well represented, perhaps the most famous place to encounter them remains the Goa Lawah (Temple of the Bats) where they are worshipped by the locals and also constitute a tourist attraction, and other cave temples like Gangga Beach ones. Two species of primates occur in the island: the Crab-eating Macaque, known locally as "kera" quite common around human settlements or temples, where they became accustomed to people feeding them, particularly in any of the three so called "monkey forest" temples, with the most popular one in Ubud area. They are also quite often being kept as pets by locals. The second primate, far more rare and elusive is the Silver Leaf Monkey known locally as "lutung". They occur virtually only in Bali Barat National Park, though in decent numbers. Other, rarer mammals include the Leopard Cat, Sunda Pangolin and Black Giant Squirrel.

The rich coral reef around the coast Bali particularly around popular diving spots like Tulamben, Amed, Menjangan or neighboring Nusa Penida host a large amount of marine life, like Hawksbill Turtle, Giant Sunfish, Giant Manta Ray, Giant Moray Eel, Bumphead Parrotfish, Hammerhead Sharks, Reef Sharks, Barracudas, Sea Snakes and so on. Dolphins are commonly encountered on the north coast near Singaraja and Lovina.

Due to human influence many plants have been introduced by humans within the last centuries, particularly since 20th century, making it sometimes hard to distinguish what plants are really native. From the larger trees most common are: Banyan trees, Jackfruit, coconuts, bamboo species, acacia trees and also endless rows of coconuts and banana species. Numerous flowers can be seen: Hibiscus, frangipani, bougainvillea, poinsettia, oleander, jasmine, water lily, roses, begonias, orchids and hydrangeas exist. On higher grounds that receive more moisture, like around Kintamani, certain species of fern trees, mushrooms and even pine trees thrive well. Rice comes in many varieties. Other plants with agricultural value include: salak, mangosteen, corn, Kintamani orange, coffee and water spinach.

Bali Administrative divisions

Provincial Balinese flag

The province is divided into 8 regencies (kabupaten) and 1 city (kota). Unless otherwise stated, the regency's capital:

• Badung, capital Denpasar
• Bangli, capital Bangli
• Buleleng, capital Singaraja
• Denpasar (city)
• Gianyar, capital Gianyar
• Jembrana, capital Negara
• Karangasem, capital Amlapura
• Klungkung, capital Semarapura
• Tabanan, capital Tabanan

Economy

Rice terraces near Ubud; until the late-twentieth century tourist boom, agriculture dominated Bali's economy

Three decades ago, the Balinese economy was largely agriculture-based in terms of both output and employment. Tourism is now the largest single industry; and as a result, Bali is one of Indonesia's wealthiest regions. About 80% of Bali's economy depends on tourism.The economy, however, suffered significantly as a result of the terrorist bombings 2002 and 2005. The tourism industry is slowly recovering once again.

Although tourism produces the economy's largest output, agriculture is still the island's biggest employer;  most notably rice cultivation. Crops grown in smaller amounts include fruit, vegetables, Coffea arabica and other cash and subsistence crops  Fishing also provides a significant number of jobs. Bali is also famous for its artisans who produce a vast array of handicrafts, including batik and ikat cloth and clothing, wooden carvings, stone carvings, painted art and silverware. Notably, individual villages typically adopt a single product, such as wind chimes or wooden furniture.

The Arabica coffee production region is the highland region of Kintamani near Mount Batur. Generally, Balinese coffee is processed using the wet method. This results in a sweet, soft coffee with good consistency. Typical flavors include lemon and other citrus notes.  Many coffee farmers in Kintamani are members of a traditional farming system called Subak Abian, which is based on the Hindu philosophy of "Tri Hita Karana". According to this philosophy, the three causes of happiness are good relations with God, other people and the environment. The Subak Abian system is ideally suited to the production of fair trade and organic coffee production. Arabica coffee from Kintamani is the first product in Indonesia to request a Geographical Indication.

Although significant tourism exists in the north, centre and east of the island, the tourism industry is overwhelmingly focused in the south. The main tourist locations are the town of Kuta (with its beach), and its outer suburbs (which were once independent townships) of Legian and Seminyak; the east coast town of Sanur (once the only tourist hub); to the south of the airport is Jimbaran; in the center of the island Ubud; and the newer development of Nusa Dua.

Another increasingly important source of income for Bali is what is called "Congress Tourism" from the frequent international conferences held on the island, especially after the terrorist bombings of 2002 and 2005; ostensibly to resurrect Bali's damaged tourism industry as well as its tarnished image.

The American government lifted its travel warnings in 2008. As of 2009 the Australian government still rates it a 4 danger level (the same as several countries in central Africa) on a scale of 5.

An offshoot of tourism is the growing real estate industry in Bali. Bali real estate has been rapidly developing in the main tourist districts of Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Oberoi. Most recently, high end 5 star projects are under development on the Bukit peninsula on the south side of the island. Million dollar villas are springing up along the cliff sides of south Bali, commanding panoramic ocean views. Foreign and domestic (many Jakarta individuals and companies are fairly active) investment into other areas of the island also continues to grow. Land prices, despite the worldwide economic crisis have remained stable.

In the last half of 2008, Indonesia's currency had dropped approximately 30% against the US dollar, providing many overseas visitors value for their currencies. Visitor arrivals for 2009 were forecast to drop 8% (which would be higher than 2007 levels), but this is due to the worldwide economic crisis which has also affected the global tourist industry and not due to any travel warnings.

Bali's tourism economy has not only survived the horrible terrorist bombings of 2002 and 2005, the tourism industry has slowly recovered and surpassed its pre-terrorist bombing levels and the longterm trend is a steady increase of visitor arrivals.

The Indonesian Tourism Ministry expects more visitors arrivals in 2010, whose target for visitor arrivals is aimed to be the highest ever. Bali's tourism brand is Bali Shanti Shanti Shanti. Where Shanti derived from Sanskrit "Shanti"   meaning peace.

Bali Transportation

Airports: The Ngurah Rai International Airport is located near Jimbaran, on the isthmus joining the southernmost part of the island to the main part of the island. Lt.Col. Wisnu Airfield is found in north-west Bali.

A coastal road surrounds the island, and three major two-lane arteries cross the central mountains at passes reaching to 1,750m in height (at Penelokan). The Ngurah Rai Bypass is a four-lane expressway that partly encircles Denpasar and enables cars to travel quickly in the heavily populated south. Bali has no railway lines.

Bali Demographics

The population of Bali is 3,151,000 (as of 2005). There are an estimated 30,000 expatriates living in Bali.

Religion

Acintya is the Supreme God in Balinese Hinduism.

The Mother Temple of Besakih one of Bali's most significant Hindu temples.

Cremation procession

Unlike most of Muslim-majority Indonesia, about 93.18% of Bali's population adheres to Balinese Hinduism, formed as a combination of existing local beliefs and Hindu influences from mainland Southeast Asia and South Asia. Minority religions include Islam (4.79%), Christianity (1.38%), and Buddhism (0.64%). These figures do not include immigrants from other parts of Indonesia.

When Islam surpassed Hinduism in Java (16th century), Bali became a refuge for many Hindus. Balinese Hinduism is an amalgam in which gods and demigods are worshipped together with Buddhist heroes, the spirits of ancestors, indigenous agricultural deities and sacred places. Religion as it is practiced in Bali is a composite belief system that embraces not only theology, philosophy, and mythology, but ancestor worship, animism and magic. It pervades nearly every aspect of traditional life. Caste is observed, though less strictly than in India. With an estimated 20,000 temples and shrines, Bali is known as the "Island of the Gods".

Balinese Hinduism has roots in Indian Hinduism and in Buddhism, and adopted the animistic traditions of the indigenous people. This influence strengthened the belief that the gods and goddesses are present in all things. Every element of nature, therefore, possesses its own power, which reflects the power of the gods. A rock, tree, dagger, or woven cloth is a potential home for spirits whose energy can be directed for good or evil. Balinese Hinduism is deeply interwoven with art and ritual, and is less preoccupied with scripture, law, and belief than Islam in Indonesia. Ritualizing states of self-control are a notable feature of religious expression among the people, who for this reason have become famous for their graceful and decorous behavior.

Apart from the majority of Balinese Hindus, there also exist Chinese immigrants whose traditions have melded with that of the locals. As a result, these Sino-Balinese not only embrace their original religion, which is a mixture of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism, but also find a way to harmonise it with the local traditions. Hence, it is not uncommon to find local Sino-Balinese during the local temple's odalan. Moreover, Balinese Hindu priests are invited to perform rites alongside a Chinese priest in the event of the death of a Sino-Balinese.^[23] Nevertheless, the Sino-Balinese claim to embrace Buddhism for administrative purposes, such as their Identity Cards.

Language

Balinese and Indonesian are the most widely spoken languages in Bali, and the vast majority of Balinese people are bilingual or trilingual. There are several indigenous Balinese languages, but most Balinese can also use the most widely spoken option: modern common Balinese. The usage of different Balinese languages was traditionally determined by the Balinese caste system and by clan membership, but this tradition is diminishing.

English is a common third language (and the primary foreign language) of many Balinese, owing to the requirements of the tourism industry.

Bali Culture

Main articles: Music of Bali and Balinese art

The famous dancer i Mario, picture taken 1940.

Bali is renowned for its diverse and sophisticated art forms, such as painting, sculpture, woodcarving, handcrafts, and performing arts. Balinese percussion orchestra music, known as gamelan, is highly developed and varied. Balinese performing arts often portray stories from Hindu epics such as the Ramayana but with heavy Balinese influence. Famous Balinese dances include pendet, legong, baris, topeng, barong, gong keybar, and kecak (the monkey dance). Bali boasts one of the most diverse and innovative performing arts cultures in the world, with paid performances at thousands of temple festivals, private ceremonies, or public shows. The Hindu New Year, Nyepi, is celebrated in the spring by a day of silence. On this day everyone stays at home and tourists are encouraged to remain in their hotels. But the day before that large, colourful sculptures of ogoh-ogoh monsters are paraded and finally burned in the evening to drive away evil spirits. Other festivals throughout the year are specified by the Balinese pawukon calendrical system.

Ogoh-ogoh monster in Ubud

Balinese dancers wearing elaborate headgear, photographed in 1929. Digitally restored.

Celebrations are held for many occasions such as a tooth-filing (coming-of-age ritual), cremation or odalan (temple festival). One of the most important concepts that Balinese ceremonies have in common is that of désa kala patra, which refers to how ritual performances must be appropriate in both the specific and general social context. Many of the ceremonial art forms such as wayang kulit and topeng are highly improvisatory, providing flexibility for the performer to adapt the performance to the current situation. Many celebrations call for a loud, boisterous atmosphere with lots of activity and the resulting aesthetic, ramé, is distinctively Balinese. Oftentimes two or more gamelan ensembles will be performing well within earshot, and sometimes compete with each other in order to be heard. Likewise, the audience members talk amongst themselves, get up and walk around, or even cheer on the performance, which adds to the many layers of activity and the liveliness typical of ramé.

Kaja and kelod are the Balinese equivalents of North and South, which refer to ones orientation between the island's largest mountain Gunung Agung (kaja), and the sea (kelod). In addition to spatial orientation, kaja and kelod have the connotation of good and evil; gods and ancestors are believed to live on the mountain whereas demons live in the sea. Buildings such as temples and residential homes are spatially oriented by having the most sacred spaces closest to the mountain and the unclean places nearest to the sea.

Balinese dancer, taken before 1952.

Most temples have an inner courtyard and an outer courtyard which are arranged with the inner courtyard furthest kaja. These spaces serve as performance venues since most Balinese rituals are accompanied by any combination of music, dance and drama. The performances that take place in the inner courtyard are classified as wali, the most sacred rituals which are offerings exclusively for the gods, while the outer courtyard is where bebali ceremonies are held, which are intended for gods and people. Lastly, performances meant solely for the entertainment of humans take place outside the walls of the temple and are called bali-balihan. This three-tiered system of classification was standardized in 1971 by a committee of Balinese officials and artists in order to better protect the sanctity of the oldest and most sacred Balinese rituals from being performed for a paying audience.

Tourism, Bali's chief industry, has provided the island with a foreign audience that is eager to pay for entertainment, thus creating new performance opportunities and more demand for performers. The impact of tourism is controversial since before it became integrated into the economy, the Balinese performing arts did not exist as a capitalist venture, and were not performed for entertainment outside of their respective ritual context. Since the 1930s sacred rituals such as the barong dance have been performed both in their original contexts, as well as exclusively for paying tourists. This has led to new versions of many of these performances which have developed according to the preferences of foreign audiences; some villages have a barong mask specifically for non-ritual performances as well as an older mask which is only used for sacred performances.

The Balinese eat with their right hand, as the left is impure, a common belief throughout Indonesia. The Balinese do not hand or receive things with their left hand and would not wave at anyone with their left hand.

wikipedia

Bali resorts await holidaymakers

Holiday season is drawing near, and Bali will again be busy after months of little tourist activity.

With the scare over Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS), in the past, and a more stable security condition, star-rated hotels and luxury resorts on Bali are hoping for the best.

Since 2002, when Bali suffered a devastating bomb attack, the number of visitors to the island has dwindled.

Hotel owners and managers have been faced with tough decisions on how to meet skyrocketing costs without optimum occupancy. Consequently, hotel occupancy rates, which averaged at between 60 percent and 90 percent in early 2002, plunged to as low as 15 percent after the Oct.12, 2002 blasts

Many tourists, who were formerly Bali regulars, turned to other destinations in neighboring Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam for their holidays.

During the two-year ""down period"", a number of resorts here underwent major renovations.

Keke Hidayat, director of public relations at the Intercontinental Resort Bali in Jimbaran area, said hotels on the island needed to work extra hard to compete with their counterparts in Asia, Australia and the Pacific islands.

""We can't just sit and wait for guests to appear. There are so many proactive options,"" she said.

After a year-long renovation process, the hotel is now ready to welcome families with its Jimbaran Holiday Deal. Unlike other hotels, where children are an afterthought, the Bali Intercontinental perceives that as June and July are a long school holiday, children should be a priority.

The hotel expects an influx of guests in that period: ""We have taken bookings from Australia, Japan and a small number of European guests, as well as from Asian countries, like Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan and China,"" she added.

Domestically, she said, there would also be greater interest this year, but Keke was counting on local guests typically booking at the last minute.

Keke highlighted some of the treats that would be available to children at the hotel. There would be Balinese dance classes, kite-making, handicraft and sports activities, she said.

And for parents and other adults, relaxation and luxury await. Keke mentioned a massage on the beach as one way to unwind, while the children would fly their new kites and enjoy the open space that Bali offers.

The newly opened Conrad Bali Resort and Spa is another more-than-attractive option. This sophisticated and luxurious resort is located at Tanjung Benoa, providing guests with stunning views and ambience.

Indeed, there are many luxury resorts to choose from, located in Sanur, Kuta, Nusa Dua, Jimbaran, Ubud, Tabanan and Buleleng, North Bali.

Melia Bali Villas and Spa Resort in Nusa Dua, for instance, has recently renovated its 495 guest rooms. The resort gives businesspeople the chance to leave the office, without totally losing touch with work. It offers high-speed Internet access in 125 of its rooms.

Like Melia Bali Villas and Spa Resort, the Westin Resort, formerly known as Sheraton Nusa Indah Resort, in Nusa Dua complex, has also finished refurbishing its facilities, with total spending hitting US$5 million.

The Westin Resort offers 355 luxurious guest rooms and suites, where modern facilities meet Balinese hospitality.

The Westin Resort is connected to the Bali International Convention Center, which boasts comprehensive and spacious meeting and exhibition facilities. For businesspeople who are also parents, this is an ideal situation.

Actually, the island's tourist industry has some pretty good deals for children. Bali Hilton International is another example. The relaunched Kids Club named Wayan Made Kids Club has a great adventure playground.

The US$60,000 refurbishment includes a new rope climbing-frame, which covers an area of over 400 square meters, with 8 levels rising to a height of well over three meters.

""Safety and security was a major consideration. There is a wall around the entire Kids Club with child-proof entry and exit points,"" said Happy Soebianto, public relations manager of Bali Hilton.

Deddy Sasmita, public relations manager of Hard Rock Bali, feels optimistic about the holiday season, and for good reason, ""We are fully booked,"" he said.

The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Bali resorts offer luxury and tranquility

After the mad rush of wedding preparations, and then the event itself, heading to a villa that is surrounded by lush green rice fields, high above Petanu River in Ubud, would be the perfect way to start life as a married couple.

The newly renovated Kamandalu Resort, built to resemble a traditional Balinese village, is offering special packages for honeymooners.

""Our major markets are Japan and the United Kingdom and a new promising market, Australia,"" said Darmawan P. Drajat, Kamandalu's general manager, adding that the company has set up representative offices in the two countries.

More and more young people plan to hold their weddings or spend their honeymoons in Ubud's resorts, he said.

Kamandalu, he said, comprises eight pavilions, five family pavilions, 19 garden villas, four Jacuzzi villas, eight pool villas, five deluxe pool villas and two double-bedrooms, with rates between US$300 and $800.

Darmawan said young Japanese executives and Australian tourists were starting to pick Ubud as a holiday destination, whereas before visitors had mostly been older Japanese couples or groups of middle-aged Europeans.

""Ubud has never been as energetic and lively as Kuta is. But, the fact that young visitors are now interested in this art village is expected to boost the tourism-related industry, which has suffered from global and regional influences over the last decade, including SARS and the Iraq war,"" he said.

Some resorts and villas in Ubud, like Kamandalu, are working with small and medium enterprises managed by local artisans and entrepreneurs. ""We procure most of our hotel amenities and spa ingredients from local artisans. We are very proud to promote their products while at the same time helping to improve their businesses,"" Darmawan said.

Kamandalu like other accommodation in Ubud is gearing up to prepare for the upcoming peak seasons in the months of July to August and November to December.

""We have received orders from our agents, particularly from Japan (60 percent) for the coming season, when occupancy usually reaches 80 to 90 percent,"" he said.

Ubud in Gianyar, 30 kilometer north of Denpasar, is home to many exclusive resorts such as Alila Ubud, Amandari and Maya Ubud.

Bali is teeming with world-class resorts. The once-barren hill of Jimbaran, 15 minutes drive from the Ngurah Rai International Airport, has become a favorite escape for the rich and famous.

Shanta de Silva, resort manager of Bali Intercontinental is optimistic about the hospitality industry on Bali. ""We had a very good year in 2004 with increasing number of visitors, the rich in particular, to the island. We are expecting a better year in 2005,"" he said enthusiastically.

The tsunami catastrophe, he said, slightly affected tourism in the Southeast Asian region including Bali. ""But only between January and February. Since early March, the market has picked up,"" he said.

Bali, he said, has always been one of the world's top tourism destinations. ""We opened The Club Intercontinental in July 2004 and the response has been very positive, particularly from the Japanese, European and Australian markets,"" he said.

Surprisingly, many domestic guests also use this facility. ""We have a strong market in Jakarta and Surabaya,"" de Silva said.

The Ritz-Carlton - Bali Resort & Spa, perched on a bluff overlooking azure Indian Ocean, embraces the mystique of Bali, its natural beauty and the inherent grace and hospitality of its people.

The resort, also located in Jimbaran, offers 375 guest rooms, suites, villas, 30 restaurants and lounges and a comprehensive spa complex, said Meutia Irataliana, the public relation coordinator

Meanwhile Bali Thalasso & Spa, located near The Ritz-Carlton, offers more than 60 different spa treatments and features one of the world's largest Aquatonic seawater pool.

The island's hottest destinations are no longer centered in Nusa Dua, Sanur, Kuta and Jimbaran but are found in the far-flung areas of Negara in Jembrana, Klungkung and Karangasem in East Bali, as well as the northern part of Bali.

""But, the market is not saturated because each area offers a different ambience and different natural surrounding,"" Darmawan said.

Hoteliers in Bali look forward to the opening of new hotels and villas including Bvlgari in the coming months.

Andrew Tan, Singapore Airline's manager in Bali, previously said that the airline is closely cooperating with numerous resorts, hotels and villas in Bali.

""We are offering significant discounts at numerous hotels and resorts including Melia Bali in Nusa Dua, Kupu-Kupu Barong villa in Ubud as benefit for SIA passengers,"" Tan said.

""It is our effort to bring visitors to Bali,"" he said.

The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Bali resorts, still a tropical paradise

DENPASAR (JP): Despite the social and political upheavals plaguing many parts of the country, the holiday island of Bali's tourist industry is still going strong.

Renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, white sands and myriad cultural and traditional attractions, Bali has become one of the world's most popular destinations.

In the last few years, foreign and domestic tourists have combined leisure and business while on the island, increasing the demand for quality resorts.

Bali fortunately has an ample choice of international-standard resorts, which offer multifarious services compounding business and pleasure activities for their opulent clientele.

Visitors can choose resort facilities which suit their personal needs.

Bali's first resort areas Kuta and Legian, which are 12 kilometers southwest of Denpasar, have a number of good hotels and resorts ready to serve holidaymakers as well as businessmen.

Although the areas have become too commercialized and crowded, there are still some places to hide out. Among the best resorts here are the Oberoi (covers 15 acres of land) which offers tranquility and privacy, Kul Kul Beach resort and Bali Dynasty.

Sanur, Bali's second resort area boasts numerous restaurants, shops and hotels such as Hotel Sanur Beach, Bali Hyatt and Tandjung Sari. The wide beach, framed by shallow coral reefs and white sands, is a perfect site for snorkeling, boating and wind surfing.

To the south, Nusa Dua is Bali's first integrated and well-planned resort area, which consist of two tiny islands linked to the mainland by a reinforced sand spit. There are several good resorts in the area including Amanusa, Sheraton Laguna (next to Sheraton Nusa Indah Convention Center), Bali Hilton International and the Grand Hyatt.

Ubud, which was renowned as an art colony in the l930s and has since grown into the island's main cultural center, is an excellent base from which to explore Bali's interior.

There are many excellent resorts in this art village such as Amandari, a modern resort which blends traditional and modern architectural elements. Other resorts include Four Season Resort at Sayan (near Ayung River), Ibah Luxury Villas, Pita Maha and Kokokan Hotel.

Once an almost barren fishing village, Jimbaran Bay, 20 km southwest of Denpasar, has been transformed into an elegant resort area with diamond-star facilities like Ritz Carlton, Bali Cliff Resort, Four Seasons Resorts and Hotel Inter-Continental Bali.

Bali has also expanded its resort areas as far as Canggu (Hotel Tugu), Tabanan (Le Meridien and Bali Nirwana Resort) and Candi Dasa area in Klungkung, East Bali, as well as Lovina in Buleleng regency and Menjangan Jungle and Beach resort in West Bali.

Potential clients

With such a large number of beautiful and world-class resort facilities, people may wonder whether the island's tourist industry has been affected by Indonesia's burgeoning economic problems.

I Gde Wiratha, chairman of the Bali branch of the Indonesian Hotel and Restaurant Association (PHRI) said Bali's tourist industry was beginning to recover after the l998 riot, but the unstable political and social conditions might still haunt the industry.

""The present situation has certainly influenced the growth of tourist-related businesses on the island and we are uncertain of what is going to happen in the coming months,"" Wiratha explained.

There has been visit cancellations as travel advisories issued by several foreign countries discouraged their citizens from traveling to Indonesia, including Bali.

But Minister of Culture and Tourism I Gde Ardhika is convinced that Bali is still the favorite destination of local and foreign tourists.

Bali has become the ""in"" destination among single Japanese females in their 20s and 30s who enjoy relaxing at expensive hotels on the tropical island.

According to the Japan Tourist Bureau (JTB), Indonesia, Bali in particular, will see an influx of 15,000 Japanese tourists during the holiday seasons, a 166.7 percent increase from the year before.

The latest data from the Ministry of Culture and Tourism revealed that the number of tourist arrivals in January this year was 330,094, a 12.3 percent increase from the same period in l999.

In 2000, the country received 5.06 million foreign visitors, slightly less than its target of 5.1 million visitors.

In January, the number of tourist arrivals at Ngurah Rai Airport in Bali increased by 14.94 percent compared to the same period in 2000.

The increase in the number of tourist arrivals may boost the island's economy.

A recent survey conducted by local tourism authorities showed that a foreign tourist visiting Bali spent an average of US$77.35 per day and stayed 11 days on average last year.

The survey conducted on 3,884 tourists also showed that foreign tourists in Bali spend $3.3 million in total, adding that Japanese tourists spent the most ($589,400), followed by British tourists ($322,200) and Australians ($238,300).

Mark Griffith, general manager of Le Meridien Hotel at Bali Nirwana Resort in Tabanan, confirmed that the resort business was still flourishing.

He said Bali still had a good reputation among foreigners.

""It's lucky that many tourists rarely associate Bali with Indonesia,"" the general manager said.

Currently, Australia, Japan and Europe remain strong markets for the Bali tourist industry.

Griffith added that the current multidimensional crisis had influenced tourist-related industries. ""But, we should not just sit and do nothing,"" he said.

To promote his hotel and Bali in general, Griffith said the management had optimized its strong international chains in various tourist markets worldwide.

""Bali has so many good features as a tourist destination, such as good hotels and resorts in addition to its rich culture and tradition,"" he said.

He said his company was now penetrating new markets including Russia, France, Middle East and China.

Presently, the hotel's clients come from Europe (35 percent), Indonesia (17 percent), the United States (8 percent) and Japan (8 percent).

""Many of our guests come from Tokyo, London or New York. For them, Bali's resorts are amazingly peaceful and beautiful,"" he said.

A number of hotel and resort operators shared his optimism.

An official of Sheraton Laguna in Nusa Dua said recently that in December 2000, the occupancy rate of the hotel reached about 84 percent.

Bali governor Dewa Beratha admitted that although hotel and tourist industries were still strong, new investments in the industries were substantially decreasing.

Last year, authorities in Bali approved foreign investment plans worth $141.5 million, compared to $426 million a year earlier.

Foreign investors in Bali were engaged in tourism consulting services and operation of water recreation facilities with an investment of $119.5 million. The hotel industry came in second with a total investment of $13.9 million, followed by the trade sector with $3.6 million.

Foreign investments in the hotel industry plunged to $112 million in l999 and to $13.9 million in 2000 compared to $255.5 million in l998.

He said the province would need Rp 2.4 trillion in investment to achieve a 3.8 percent growth.

Bali is too crowded now and no longer needs new hotels or resorts. The island already has a lot of resorts where visitors can enjoy the beauty of Bali while doing business. (raw)

The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Authentic Makassar cuisine comes to Jakarta

For those who crave authentic dishes, desserts and snacks from Makasar or for anyone who just wants to try tasting the traditional Makasar dishes, H. Mamink Daeng Tata is the place to visit.

Location: There are three H. Mamink Daeng Tata rumah makan (restaurants), all situated in the Tebet-Casablanca area. One is on Jl. Tebet Utara I, the other on Jl. K.H. Abdullah Syafiie, and the newest is on Jl. Casablanca. They are easy to find, so if one of them is full, you can easily move to another, which is just a short distance away.

Looks: The restaurants are located right on the street so parking can be a problem when the restaurants get crowded. The restaurants are in an open area with ceiling fans to cool patrons. The space is narrow, so not many tables and chairs can fit into the restaurant.

What's it got: It is the best place to find the specialties of Makassar cuisine in Jakarta, like sop konro and coto Makassar. Sop konro is an ox rib soup that is very spicy. One portion comes with two ribs.

Another authentic dish is coto, which is not to be confused with soto (soup). Coto is served in a small bowl and you can opt for the meat-only coto or animal innards coto, while with soto you get ribs, meat and animal innards as well.

Either way, soto or coto is served with ketupat burasa (steamed rice wrapped in banana leafs) or steamed rice, depending on your liking. The authentic desserts of Makassar, such as es pisang ijo and es pallubutung are also the best selling ones.

The special snacks of Makassar, such as lemper (steamed glutinous rice mixed with meat and wrapped in a banana leaf), jalangkote (pastel) and lumpia are tasty. The people of Sulawesi fill lemper with hot and spicy chopped cakalang (fish) while in Java it is usually filled with chopped chicken or meat.Lemper is also grilled for awhile to give it flavor from the banana leaf. Other dishes that do not originate in Makasar, such as nasi goreng, ifumi and siomay are also available. Taste factor: The coto, soto and sop konro are original in taste. Their special abundant ingredients blend well together. It is up to the diners to add the desired amount of salt and spice to the dishes. Its burasa, typical of South Sulawesi cuisine, is not special compared to a few months back when its coconut milk was tastier.

The desserts, such as es pallubutung and es pisang ijo, are excellent. Es pallubutung is a mix of sliced sweet pisang raja (banana), tasty rice powdered porridge, syrup, condensed milk and crushed ice, while pisang ijo consists of whole sweet pisang raja covered with sweet, green rice flour, tasty rice powdered porridge, syrup, condensed milk and crushed ice. Interestingly, the condiments on the table are in unlabeled plastic bottles, such as the ketchup, milk and homemade syrup.

Price Points: Prices on the menu are reasonable. One portion of coto costs Rp 7,000 while sop konro is Rp 15,000 per portion. The prices do not include the burasa, ketupat and steamed rice. Tata ribs is the most expensive dish at Rp 17,000 per portion, and desserts cost Rp 6,000 a bowl. There is no tax on the food you order.

Minus points: Lunchtimes and the weekend are the busiest times at H. Mamink Daeng Tata restaurant. When diners outnumber the seats, they have to line up, and lunch or dinner can feel rushed since those waiting for a seat may stand next to you while you are finishing your meal.

Verdict: Despite the many visitors that come and go during the busy times, service is consistently efficient and you don't have to wait a long time for your order. If you are dining with your family, it is better not to go on the weekend or during lunchtime since it gets very crowded.

The addresses of the three H. Mamink Daeng Tata restaurants are Jl. Casablanca 33, tel. 831 55 55; Jl. Tebet Utara I No.77 tel. 835 00 34 and Jl. Abdullah Syafii 33 tel. 837 93 333. Opening hours are from 10:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. on Fridays and 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 a.m. on Saturdays.

The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Anai's Padang cuisine in upmarket setting

JAKARTA (JP): Everybody knows that Padang food is this country's closest equivalent to fast food. Usually eaten in the ""raw"", meaning on a dusty sidewalk in the market in the middle of all the action, platters of food are stacked like pyramids in the sun before being brought out before the diner to make their selections.

But the heat and noise are also part of the reason why some people give the food of West Sumatra a miss rather than dealing with the sideshows.

For them, there is Anai, which was advertised when it opened a couple of years ago as the only Padang restaurant located in a hotel. Moving on up? Stomachs grumbling and cash at the ready, we set out to see if it passes the taste test in its fancy environs, or have the spices been watered down for the more delicate palates among us.

Anai Restaurant, Boulevard Park Plaza Hotel, Jl. Letjen S. Parman Kav. 93-94, Slipi, West Jakarta.

Location: Easy to reach by public transportation or private car. Boulevard Park Plaza Hotel is the only hotel between two popular buildings; Taman Anggrek Mall and Harapan Kita hospital located on Jl. S. Parman -- one of Jakarta's main thoroughfares -- and not far from the Tomang flyover. The restaurant is on the first floor of the hotel, next to the swimming pool.

What's it got: The restaurant's thick menu lists its Padang style dishes and other Indonesian traditional food.

Taking up space on the first page are the most renowned Padang dishes: Rendang daging (braised beef in spicy coconut milk), gulai ayam (chicken in a spicy stew), gulai tunjang (cow's hoof stew) and ikan asam pedas (tuna in a spicy sour sauce).

There is also a variety of other foods -- eggs, cow's brain, jackfruit, squid -- in gulai, a spicy, curry-like stew made from coconut milk.

Other spicy Padang dishes cooked without coconut milk are dendeng balado (dried and fried beef garnished with red chili), telur balado (fried whole egg with chili), sambal goreng ati ampela (spicy chicken liver and gizzard with chili), udang balado (spicy fried shrimp with pete - a pungent type of bean) and chili), sate Padang (diced ox tongue satay with the distinctive Padang sauce), green or red chili sauce, ayam pop (boiled local chicken served with cassava leaves and chili), and nasi goreng Padang (Padang style fried rice).

Dishes from other regions of the country include grilled fish and chicken, gado-gado (blanched vegetables in peanut sauce), soto (chicken broth) and oxtail soup. And, of course, fried rice.

Sweet Padang beverages in tall, slim glasses include es cinderamato (a mix of flavored jellies, fermented black rice, cassava, condensed milk and ice) and Anai's es cindua (pandan-flavored flour in a syrup made from coconut milk and brown sugar).

Non-alcoholic cocktails include Batavia springs, virgin colada, lime punch and fruit punch. Alcoholic beverages include whisky, vodka, tequila, beer, red or white wine and champagne. Coffee-based drinks include cappuccino, espresso, decaffeinated coffee or liqueur coffee (Jamaican coffee, Italian coffee, Mexican coffee, Irish coffee), while fresh juices and tea add to the extensive drinks list.

Price Points: The bill came to Rp 182,000 net for our party of two's one small rendang, ayam pop, fish in a sweet and sour sauce, squid in a gulai sauce, five skewers of Padang satay, a small gurame fish, two small portions of Padang vegetables, three standard portions of rice, and three soft drinks. Pricey compared to the usual Padang eateries, but then this is a hotel, with all the ""plus pluses"".

Looks: Set in a traditional Minangkabau ambience with framed fabrics from the region, traditional weapons and musical instruments hanging on the wall and a traditional tablecloth on each of more than 15 tables. There are also two private dining rooms, each seating up to 12 diners.

The two waiters in their traditional Minang costumes may not be as dexterous as some of their counterparts, who are able to bear a dozen dishes as they scurry between tables, but Anai's staff do their job well and are all friendly.

Unlike most of its kind, this Padang restaurant is clean and comfortable.

Popular with: Expatriates from the offices along S. Parman street in Slipi, West Jakarta.

Taste Factor: Good all round, but rather disappointing if spice -- especially chili -- is what you relish. The rendang meat was too small and not spicy enough, the gulai curry tasted bitter, while the ikan asam pedas and the green chili sauce lacked flavor. But we do recommend Anai's delicious and top selling gurame in a yellow sour sauce, and the sweet es cinderamato and es cindua.

Minus Points: Lack of taste, meaning spice. Spice lovers will not be able to get the fire-brand hot taste they crave, but the experience will be a non-threatening introduction for others.

Verdict: A comfortable, spotless place for a good Padang meal. No need to worry about chili after effects, which may be a good or bad thing, depending on how you like your food. (Deni Putri)

The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Belakang Padang Island 'soothes longing hearts'

A wooden boat carries passengers from Belakang Padang Island to Batam Island. In this picture, skyscrapers in Singapore can be seen in the distance. (JP/Fadli)

If not separated by an ocean, Singapore's skyscrapers could be part of Belakang Padang Island.

But due to the seven-mile expanse of water, Belakang Padang has a totally different landscape from that of Singapore: They are as different as night and day.

"We used to take a wooden boat to Singapore. No passport was required. We sold fish and they paid in dollars, not rupiah," said Wak Haji Jantan, 65, a resident of Belakang Padang, recalling his heyday as a transboundary trader.

In the past, people from Belakang Padang could easily travel back and forth to Singapore to sell their products and purchase low-priced electronic goods. Many of them also worked in Singapore.

But strict security measures imposed by both Singapore and Indonesia in the 1980s cut off their freedom of traveling to the country.

Belakang Padang is one of 300 islands under the Batam City administration.

"But it (the development in Belakang Padang) is far behind that of Batam. Luckily we still have a pristine environment and it is not noisy like it is there," Jantan said.

Belakang Padang, which covers 4,202 hectares and has a population of 19,000 people, is located southwest of Batam and only 15 minutes away by wooden boat, locally called kapal pancung.

Everyday about 200 such boats serve the Batam-Belakang Padang route, a single trip costing Rp 8,000 (84 US cents). The boats are about five meters long and one-and-a-half meters wide. Life jackets are not available onboard and there is only a canvas roof to protect passengers from the rain or scorching sunshine.

Strong waves often rock the boats, especially when they encounter the large ferries that go to and fro between Batam and Singapore. First-time riders are usually gripped with fear when the small boats zig-zag up and down along with the waves, as if they could be drawn down into the water.

But the sailors are local residents who have an amazing ability to control the boats, thanks to their experiences riding the waves.

On a kapal pancung ride from Batam to Belakang Padang, two islands can be spotted ahead. On the left, with lines of houses along a densely-populated coast, is Belakang Padang; on the right a mile away is Sambu Island with large silver tanks seen at its edge. It is the national fuel depot for Sumatra.

A long time ago, when Batam was mostly covered by forest, Belakang Padang had already been claimed as a district of the Riau Islands Regency. When Batam built its first industry zones in the 1970s, Belakang Padang was left behind.

Batam residents would go to Belakang Padang to take care of government or administration matters, but now the tables have turned.

The existence of the Belakang Padang Special Immigration Office is proof that the island was once a bustling place. Even though it is now under the Batam city administration, which has its own immigration office, the office in Belakang Padang is still in operation.

Visiting Belakang Padang is like breathing fresh air. The friendly atmosphere is obvious on this island and the thick Malay dialect can be heard from every corner. It is different from Batam, where various dialects are heard.

There is no noise from vehicles, just the distant roaring of boat engines.

Only two four-wheeled vehicles are on the island -- a garbage truck and an ambulance. Some residents have motorcycles but none own a car, even though the roads are in satisfactory condition.

The only other type of vehicular transportation available are three-wheel pedicabs, which are used for public transport along with motorcycle taxis (ojek).

Many ojek drivers wait for passengers at the harbor, ready to serve people who get off the boats. It takes less than 30 minutes by motorcycle to go around the island for a Rp 30,000 fare.

Belakang Padang is a place to unwind where many come to relax and enjoy the serene panorama, far away from the madding crowd. The island is known as pulau penawar rindu, or an island to "sooth the longing hearts".

It has six districts: Tanjung Sari, Sekanak Raya, Pemping, Kasu, Pecong and Terong Island, and is notorious for its red-light district. Most of the clients are older men from Singapore, known as apek-apek, who usually visit on the weekends.

It is also known as the Island of Amat, the Dutch. Amat was a local man and tall with fair skin like a Westerner. He was probably an albino, but he was often referred to as a "Dutch".

People prefer to call it the Island of Amat the Dutch as they do not like the island's other name: Pulau Babi or, the Island of Pigs, so called for the many pig farms on the island that produce pork meat which is sold in Singapore.

Pork is forbidden by Islamic law, so many residents do not like the pig name.

Belakang Padang is also famous for its gasing or top spinning, a traditional game popular among Indonesians and Malays.

Jumain, a local resident from Sakanak village, received an award from President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono in 2006 for preserving the traditional game.

He had built a small gasing arena in front of his house, and was dubbed "president gasing". The modest gasing ground attracted many visitors, including the Malaysian culture and tourism minister.

Jumain died last year, but his love for gasing lives on in the hearts of gasing enthusiasts and the people of Belakang Padang Island.

Fadli, The Jakarta Post, Belakang Padang, Batam